Thursday, August 16, 2012

I found my camera cord!

jueves 16 de agosto 2012

So Tuesday night I bought a card reader so I could transfer my photos from my camera.
Annnnd Wednesday morning I found my camera cable hidden in a pocket of my backpack.
Ay, la vida es así.

The city of Bariloche:

Dobby?


Centro Cívico




La Península de San Pedro (Um, yeah, this is where I live):





Walter and Miriam's house





the most amazing kitchen ever


Walter

Annnnd this is the backyard





Sasha

Snow!



Hiking in Llao Llao (Habana, family friend Karina, Ainhoa, and Walter)



Arrayan Forest

So there ya go: a little taste of Patagonia!

As far as teaching English goes, well… it goes!  Tuesday night I had my first private lesson, and this afternoon I had another.  And we’ve finally set the schedule for the classes here in the Peninsula; they start tomorrow and I’ll be teaching six evening classes per week.  Woot!

Tomorrow Luke and I plan to go to Cerro Catedral for some snowboarding action.  And, appropriately enough, this weekend is the Fiesta de la Nieve (Snow Festival) in Bariloche.  Ahh yeah! 












Monday, August 13, 2012

Pensamientos de la economía


lunes 13 de agosto 2012

It SNOWED Saturday night!!!! (It’s SO WEIRD that it’s the middle of August!)
And it stopped Saturday morning… but then it snowed again during the day!
(Which means… Luke and I are definitely hitting up Cerro Catedral this week!)

So this is what I’ve learned so far about the Argentine economy.  Well, first of all, it’s unstable.  Punto

(In 2002 the peso was devalued, and Argentina defaulted on their US$140 billion debt—the largest default in world history. Heh.)

But anyway.  So the currency is the Argentine peso (the symbol is $, the same as the dollar, which can be confusing).  According to the banks, US$1 = AR$4.5.  However, the black market here is quite extant.  In BA, especially down calle Florida (the main pedestrian/touristy street), there are really sketchy-looking guys that mutter “Cambio, cambio” (“exchange, exchange”) in every corner.  They’ll buy your dollars at a higher rate, like 1:5.5, and I’ve even heard of people getting 1:6 or higher.  But it’s not just the cambio guys that will buy your dollars at a good rate; just ask any Argentine if they want to buy your dollars and chances are they’ll say yes (Walter asked Luke and I if we had any).  Not that I’m normally an advocate for the black market… but if you come to Argentina, bring a buttload of cash.  And don’t exchange it in the banks or official exchange offices (I wish I had known that before I came here…  All I have is my debit card, thus I’m forced to take out money at the 1:4.5 rate). 

This really mesmerizes me.  Yeah, the dollar’s the dollar, there’s no denying that—but por qué is this phenomenon so strong?  Oftentimes in a shop, the vender will offer to lower the price if you pay in dollars instead of pesos.  There are some things you can only buy with dollars.  Or, if you don’t have them, you’re allowed to pay in pesos, but you’re charged at the black market exchange rate, not the lower bank’s.  I gathered in my first month ish here that the Argentine economy is highly dependent on the dollar.  But I didn’t really know completely why.

The other day I asked Walter about it.  He said the Argentine economy relies on the dollar because the dollar is stable.  It doesn’t change.  Yes, the US experiences inflation, but nothing like here.  Nothing like here.  The government will deny how big the inflation rate is (in general there’s a lot of corruption in their government), but it’s evident if you look at how prices have changed.  Here’s an example: My bus ticket from BA to Bariloche was about 650 pesos.  In my guidebook, (which was published only two years ago), it says a ticket should be about 280 pesos. 

Walter told me that people don’t save money here.  Yes, one reason is because Argentines in general are really good at living day by day, in the moment, and not so good at looking ahead to the future.  But another reason is because prices are bound to go up.  It doesn’t make sense to save your pesos, because a year from now they’ll only be worth half as much.  So when people have plata (money), they buy.  However, although prices in pesos fluctuate like whoa, the price in dollars stays constant.  Thus, having dollars is really desirable.      

I just find it so nuts that a country depends so much on another country’s currency.  Walter thinks the same way.  He told me he just wishes Argentina would forget about the dollar and focus on the peso.  Cristina Kirchner (la Presidenta) is trying to cut the focus on the dollar—but, as in all things, there’s a stark difference in political/economic theory and reality.  I don’t know if the dependence will ever disappear, but if it does, it’s sure going to take a long long time.

Prices here in general also just seem really skewed to me. 
English teacher’s salary/hour: AR$35-55
Lunch at the pay-by-weight take out places by Bridge: $10-20 (depending on how hungry I was)
Lunch/dinner at a restaurant: $30+
Bus in BA: $1.10-1.25
Candy bar at a kiosk: $3-7
Bar of chocolate: $12-22
Bus in Bariloche: $3-6
Happy hour drink: 2 for $40
Coca Cola: same as an alcoholic drink, but usually more expensive than beer
Ice cream cone: $8-10+

Divide by 4.5 and you have the approx. equivalent in dollars.  Okay, so a bus ride in BA is 28 cents, and a kiosk candy bar is $1.50.  But that candy bar could also get me from Walter and Miriam’s house to the centro of Bariloche.  Our TEFL group soon came to the conclusion that here, thinking Oh, this chocolate bar is only 20 pesos, that’s less than 5 dollars is not the best idea.  Because we’re not living off dollars.  We’re living off pesos (well… I will be, once I start working and actually making money, heh heh).  And the reality is that 20 pesos is a half hour’s teaching, not including lesson planning.  And 20 pesos could buy me two lunches.  Or a week’s + worth of fruits and veggies.  I’m definitely trying to be frugal during my time here.

But the truth is that I’m loving being in Argentina.  When you’re abroad, you can’t really compare it to your home country.  You just have to adapt and embrace their culture, economy, and lifestyle. 

But okay, I do have to confess a splurge I made the other day: 40 pesos for a jar of peanut butter.

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Bariloche - Living in Paradise


miércoles 8 de agosto 2012

I’ve been in Bariloche now for 10 days.  This place is absolutely magical.

Picture a humongous lake.  Now in your mind, make it twice as humongous.  Then put mountains all around it.  Sprinkle a dusting of snow on the tops of those mountains.  Add some trees.  Add some more trees.  Last, build a quaint little town on the coast.  Bam. That’s where I’m living.

For the first handful of days, Luke (one of my TEFL classmates, who came here with me) and I were couch-surfing with this guy named Mario (30-year-old snowboarding engineer. Really cool lad).  During the day we went out looking for work/housing.  I had been browsing through this website (compartdepto.com.), which lists housing/people searching for roommates in Argentina, for a while.  One day we decided to go see a house that this couple (Walter and Miriam) had listed as having a room for rent.  They live in this really big, really gorgeous wooden house, on the lake, in la Peninsula de San Pedro.  The Peninsula is about 20km from el centro, but as soon as we saw the place, that didn’t really matter to Luke and me.  We still took a few days to think on it before giving them a definite answer (honestly I was concerned about how far it was from el centro, but in the end the pros won over that con).  But now we’re living with them—and what a good decision!  They are seriously some of the nicest people I have ever met.  And did I mention they’re both professional chefs?  Yeah, they’re both professional chefs. They also have three girls, who can be obnoxious sometimes but are really just adorable (you know how little kids can be).

Living in the Peninsula is absolutely amazing.  It is kind of annoying to go to/from el centro, but when I was living in Boedo in BA, the commute was just as long (or longer, traffic-pending) to get downtown.  But out here is like a taste of paradise.  It’s a runner’s dream.  And Walter has a mountain bike (a really nice one, mind you) that he lets us borrow whenever we want (like I said, nicest people ever). 

And every once in a while, Walter and Miriam host parties at their place.  Well, there was one Saturday night (our second night in the house)!  Luke and I helped bar-tend, serve food, prep, and clean and what-not (and we got small stipend—score!).  The party was complete with multi-colored lights, high-school-age DJs, and dancing—and it went on until 5:30 (which Walter said was relatively early)!  Talk about a warm welcome!

When we moved in Walter and Miriam told us that their house was our house, and that we would be treated as part of the family.  I definitely feel like that.  Not to mention the crazy amount of Spanish practice Luke and I are getting!  So as far as the housing situation goes—I’m quite satisfied.

Looking for work, on the other hand, has been a bit stressful.  The market is nothing like that in BA.  Most of the schools we’ve visited either A) don’t need teachers until March or B) are government-run, which means we need work visas in order to be hired (whoops).  I’ve been advertising for private lessons, and also looking for business English/marketing translation work opportunities.  So right now I’m kind of playing the waiting game.  I’m trying not to stress too much over it (I didn’t come to Argentina to be stressed all the time) and just hoping I’ll find something.  Although some prayers would be more than welcome!

One thing that IS slowly coming together is that it looks like I’ll be teaching English to members of the Peninsula community!  Walter and Miriam have been talking to their neighborhood and friends.  I’ll probably be teaching a group of children at level zero, a group who’ve had a little bit of English already, and probably a group of adults too.  So that’s cool!  They said I could give the lessons right out of their house.  The parents are meeting together and with me over the next couple of days, so hopefully we can start that up next week.  Yay!  It’s almost like I’ll be founding my own mini school :)

In the meantime, I have been keeping myself busy and entertained.  I’ve visited el museo de Patagonia, and el museo de chocolate.  (Umm did I mention Bariloche is the chocolate capital of Argentina?  Uh, yeah.  And it’s not overrated at all—it’s all really really delicious)  There’s a ski hill, Cerro Catedral, right next to town.  Haven’t made it there yet, but I plan to in the next week or so. 

I also visited a Bariloche church on Sunday night.  That was… an incredible experience.  First of all, I can’t believe how much I’ve grown in my Spanish.  I mean, I didn’t understand every word, but in general I got most everything.  It just felt really cool to be able to sing and talk about God in a different language, and it still produced the same powerful effects.  It was really moving.  Secondly, the church (it’s called La Roca Centro Cristiano) is just a really cool place.  Nice people, good fun vibe, good message that night.  AND I loved the music.  At times it seriously felt like I was at a Cru meeting back at Northern.  I even knew a lot of the songs—they were just translations!  We even sang Hanging By A Moment by Lighthouse (also known as Por un momento). 

And then—totally an act of God:  The next day I was walking through town, searching for places to drop off my résumé.  I popped into a tourism/excursions office, and who was working at the desk but one of the girls from church!  She remembered me and we chatted for a while.  She told me a little more about the church and some of the activities they do.  Saturday night they’re hosting a movie which I want to go to.  She also said she thinks there are plenty of people at the church who would want to learn English (bam!).  So I think I really want to try getting involved with this community.  I could grow spiritually, make friends, and potentially work too.  We’ll see!

As for the weather here, it’s really great.  It’s winter in Argentina, and since Bariloche is more south, I thought it would be colder.  And I mean, when there’s no sun, yes it’s cold.  But during the day, it’s always been sunny, and reaching the 50s.  Really great.  And there’s no snow on the ground.  There were patches here and there when we arrived.  As far as winters go, this is totally bearable.

So there’s a general overview of my time so far in Bariloche.  Today I biked for almost five hours—stopping at bus stops to put up more flyers and then once for café con leche and once for ice cream.  And it was a perfectly sunny day—couldn’t have asked for anything better!  What’s hopefully to come: starting English classes, snowboarding, and a day trip to El Bolson (a nearby village) with Walter and Luke.

I’ll post pictures… as soon as I find my camera cord…

Friday, August 3, 2012

Starting Off - Buenos Aires

3 agusto 2012 


Yupperz, Carolyn's abroad again!  This time in Argentina, to teach English.


Wow, I can’t believe I’ve been in Argentina for over a month now! It’s definitely time to update the rest of the world on my recent adventures, i.e., starting this blog is long overdue. 


Well, I arrived in Buenos Aires on July 1. I immediately fell in love with my host family. I was living with a woman, Ana, and her husband Osvaldo. They are super nice, and our dinners always turn into heated discussions about culture, politics, drugs, world issues, and the like. It makes for fantastic Spanish practice! 


On July 2 I jumped right into my TEFL certification course at the school Bridge. Right away I made friends with my classmates, which was awesome. The course overall was really fantastic. I was kind of afraid I wouldn't like teaching or that I wouldn't be good at it, but neither proved to be true :) I really like the methodology we were being taught. It’s a communicative approach, and the idea is that you never (or, if you’re bilingual, very rarely) use the learner’s first language in the classroom—you speak English only. So, in theory, because I’ve taken this course I could go anywhere in the world in teach. I feel like if I had learned Spanish that way, I would have gotten a lot stronger a lot faster… Anyway, throughout the course we had to do practice teaching, and we gave lessons to a beginning and an advanced group of students that came to Bridge Monday-Thursday afternoons. That was fun, and I got to know some of the students pretty well. On days when we didn’t teach, we observed each other teaching—which was also a good learning experience. 


After my first week in Buenos Aires, a class from Northeastern University (based in Boston) came to take Spanish lessons at Bridge, so we had to share the building. Two girls also stayed with me and my host family. Their names were Andrea and Eugenia, and they were super cool! We became good pals and got into a few adventures together (including seeing the new Superman and Batman movies—which are both FANTASTIC, by the way!!!). I tagged along with their group on two excursions, one to an estancia (traditional gaucho ranch), and another to Tigre, a village outside Buenos Aires famous for its rivers.


Eugenia’s first time on a horse…

View of Tigre from our boat ride

Eugenia, Andrea, and I also went to see a tango show together.  The tango was fantastic—as was the dessert.



I really enjoyed my host family--it was probably my favorite part of living in BA.  There was really good chemistry between all of us.  Plus, Ana’s relatives were always over—sometimes we had dinner with her children and grandchildren!  It was super fun.  I prepared my famous Bananas Foster for dessert one night and taught Ana (then later that week she made it for us! Such a great student!).  Andrea and Eugenia prepared French Toast and scrambled eggs so we had an American breakfast for dinner one night (we coined the term “desacena”; desayuno means breakfast and cena means dinner).  And Eugenia (who is Greek) prepared a Greek lemon cake for us one day as well.  If we weren’t cooking, we were enjoying Ana’s amazing cooking (best pizza and panqueques de verduras I’ve ever had!).  Needless to say, the kitchen was always a happy place in that household!

Ana making Bananas Foster for the fam!


Eugenia, Ana, myself, and Andrea. Notice Eugenia’s and Ana’s ponchos—Eugenia bought hers at the estancia and we found the red one in a market to give to Ana as a gift!

Here are some more pictures of Buenos Aires:
Me in front of Casa Rosada (the pink Argentine version of the White House)


Plaza de Mayo


Inside the Catedral


Me with Don Julio inside our TEFL classroom (Don Julio is a toy dog. We adopted him as our class mascot.)

Buenos Aires is absolutely HUGE—it’s divided into a bunch of different neighborhoods (or barrios), but each could easily function as its own city.  Bridge was located in the Microcentro, and Ana’s house was southwest in the barrio of Boedo.  In morning weekday traffic, by bus, it was a 1hr 15 minutes commute—golly geez!  (Note that later at night with no traffic, I once made the trip in 25 minutes.)

I, being the running enthusiast that I am, quickly scouted out the best places to run in BA.  My favorite was la Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur.  This is a huge park behind Puerto Madero, right along the water, about 3-4 miles around.  Running through there, it’s like you’re not in the big city (except for the skyline off in the distance).  I did a couple long runs (7-8mi) through there.  I also once ran through el Parque 3 de Febrero located in the barrio Palermo.  And a mile away from Ana’s house was el Parque Chacabuco—complete with gravel running track and central water fountain.

I did enjoy living in BA for a month, but… that was enough.  I was starting to feel very congested.  So where did I go… Patagonia!

I’m currently residing in Bariloche (formally known as San Carlos de Bariloche) in the province of Río Negro, which is in the northern part of Argentine Patagonia.  This new environment instantly made me feel more refreshed.  So now I’m just looking for work…

…more on Bariloche to come!