lunes 13 de agosto 2012
It SNOWED Saturday
night!!!! (It’s SO WEIRD that it’s the middle of August!)
And it stopped Saturday
morning… but then it snowed again during the day!
(Which means… Luke and
I are definitely hitting up Cerro
Catedral this week!)
So this is what I’ve
learned so far about the Argentine economy.
Well, first of all, it’s unstable.
Punto.
(In 2002 the peso was
devalued, and Argentina defaulted on their US$140 billion debt—the largest
default in world history. Heh.)
But anyway. So the currency is the Argentine peso (the
symbol is $, the same as the dollar, which can be confusing). According to the banks, US$1 = AR$4.5. However, the black market here is quite
extant. In BA, especially down calle
Florida (the main pedestrian/touristy street), there are really sketchy-looking
guys that mutter “Cambio, cambio” (“exchange,
exchange”) in every corner. They’ll buy
your dollars at a higher rate, like 1:5.5, and I’ve even heard of people
getting 1:6 or higher. But it’s not just
the cambio guys that will buy your
dollars at a good rate; just ask any Argentine if they want to buy your dollars
and chances are they’ll say yes (Walter asked Luke and I if we had any). Not that I’m normally an advocate for the
black market… but if you come to Argentina, bring a buttload of cash. And don’t exchange it in the banks or
official exchange offices (I wish I had known that before I came here… All I have is my debit card, thus I’m forced
to take out money at the 1:4.5 rate).
This really mesmerizes
me. Yeah, the dollar’s the dollar,
there’s no denying that—but por qué is
this phenomenon so strong? Oftentimes in
a shop, the vender will offer to lower the price if you pay in dollars instead
of pesos. There are some things you can
only buy with dollars. Or, if you don’t
have them, you’re allowed to pay in pesos, but you’re charged at the black
market exchange rate, not the lower bank’s.
I gathered in my first month ish here that the Argentine economy is
highly dependent on the dollar. But I
didn’t really know completely why.
The other day I asked
Walter about it. He said the Argentine
economy relies on the dollar because the dollar is stable. It doesn’t change. Yes, the US experiences inflation, but
nothing like here. Nothing like here. The
government will deny how big the inflation rate is (in general there’s a lot of
corruption in their government), but it’s evident if you look at how prices
have changed. Here’s an example: My bus
ticket from BA to Bariloche was about 650 pesos. In my guidebook, (which was published only two
years ago), it says a ticket should be about 280 pesos.
Walter told me that
people don’t save money here. Yes, one
reason is because Argentines in general are really good at living day by day,
in the moment, and not so good at looking ahead to the future. But another reason is because prices are
bound to go up. It doesn’t make sense to
save your pesos, because a year from now they’ll only be worth half as much. So when people have plata (money), they buy.
However, although prices in pesos fluctuate like whoa, the price in
dollars stays constant. Thus, having
dollars is really desirable.
I just find it so nuts
that a country depends so much on another country’s currency. Walter thinks the same way. He told me he just wishes Argentina would
forget about the dollar and focus on the peso.
Cristina Kirchner (la Presidenta) is trying to cut the focus on the
dollar—but, as in all things, there’s a stark difference in political/economic
theory and reality. I don’t know if the
dependence will ever disappear, but if it does, it’s sure going to take a long
long time.
Prices here in general
also just seem really skewed to me.
English teacher’s
salary/hour: AR$35-55
Lunch at the
pay-by-weight take out places by Bridge: $10-20 (depending on how hungry I was)
Lunch/dinner at a
restaurant: $30+
Bus in BA: $1.10-1.25
Candy bar at a kiosk:
$3-7
Bar of chocolate:
$12-22
Bus in Bariloche: $3-6
Happy hour drink: 2 for
$40
Coca Cola: same as an
alcoholic drink, but usually more expensive than beer
Ice cream cone: $8-10+
Divide by 4.5 and you
have the approx. equivalent in dollars. Okay,
so a bus ride in BA is 28 cents, and a kiosk candy bar is $1.50. But that candy bar could also get me from
Walter and Miriam’s house to the centro of Bariloche.
Our TEFL group soon came to the conclusion that here, thinking Oh, this chocolate bar is only 20 pesos,
that’s less than 5 dollars is not the best idea. Because we’re not living off dollars. We’re living off pesos (well… I will be, once
I start working and actually making money, heh heh). And the reality is that 20 pesos is a half
hour’s teaching, not including lesson planning.
And 20 pesos could buy me two lunches.
Or a week’s + worth of fruits and veggies. I’m definitely trying to be frugal during my
time here.
But the truth is that
I’m loving being in Argentina. When
you’re abroad, you can’t really compare it to your home country. You just have to adapt and embrace their
culture, economy, and lifestyle.
But okay, I do have to
confess a splurge I made the other day: 40 pesos for a jar of peanut butter.
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