Saturday, December 15, 2012

Puerto Madryn (aka Real-Life Pokemon Snap)



viernes 14 de diciembre 2012

This blog post is also written from inside a bus. 

Unfortunately, the bus is currently not moving.

We just crossed into Chile and went through customs, but before we had gone for another five minutes, the bus came to a stop, behind a long trail of stopped vehicles on the road.  We haven’t moved for at least half an hour.  After much complaining and question-asking from various passengers, the bus staff finally informed us that apparently they’re repairing the road… and they couldn’t advise us beforehand…  And no one knows how long we’ll be stopped here.  No one’s allowed to get down off the bus.  We’re stuck here inside for who knows how long…  On the bright side, we won’t die of hunger, as we’re stocked with bus food, although it consists of solely cheap alfajores and white-bread sandwiches. 

Ya gotta love South America.

I guess this gives me plenty of time to write out this post…

Well, okay, first things first, I have to recap on my trip to Puerto Madryn.  Puerto Madryn is a city on the eastern coast of Argentina, and it’s a wildlife wonderland.  Its main attraction are the southern right whales, which come into the bay for part of the year for reproduction.  Well, when I learned December was the end of the whale season, I decided, “Heck yes, I’m going!”  I left the day after my half-marathon (my legs were still painfully sore… it was a rough bus ride, haha), and Ramon came with me.  We arrived Monday morning and headed directly for Puerto Pirámides, which is the only town in Peninsula Valdés (a protected reserve).  From there, we booked a tour to go whale-watching.  That afternoon we went out in a boat with about 12ish other people.  Even though it’s the end of the whale season… we still had success!  We spotted five different whales, including a new mother with her offspring.  

 its mouth is open to feed… sooo cool

After the whale tour we went back to Puerto Madryn, where we stayed at the Hi! Patagonia hostel (which was fantastic…! If you ever travel to Puerto Madryn, stay there. It’s a really friendly environment, and the owner Gaston is super awesome).  Tuesday, we booked a tour to Punta Tombo, which is a protected area that houses the world’s largest colony of Magellan penguins.  We got to walk through their territory… and at times were close enough to be able to touch them (although we weren’t supposed to)!  The best part was it’s egg-hatching season… and we saw lots of adorable little fluff-balls, aka baby penguins or pinchos.

 ¡Pingüinos!

 In the nest with the youngsters


  Hellooooooooooo!

Punta Tombo was an all-day tour, and after seeing the penguins, we went to the port of Rawson where we went on a dolphin-watching tour.  We saw Tominas (sp?), which are really small (the smallest dolphin in the world), black and white dolphins.  They were so playful… they were chasing our boat and jumping and diving the whole time we were out there!  And they were so fast too…

And, as an added bonus, we passed by a sea lion colony on the shore on our way out to sea :)


These little buggers were so fast… it was so difficult to get a good picture!  (This one I got by pure luck)  I tried for a while and then put the camera away to just enjoy the ride


In the final part of the excursion, we were taken to the city of Gaiman, which is known for its preservation of the area’s Welsh heritage.  There wasn’t too much to see, we just stayed long enough to enjoy a merienda of traditional tea and some pastries.

So… those were my wildlife-watching adventures!  I was really happy to have a two-day vacation with a bunch of animals :)  Most of the time I spent with my camera in hand, ready to snap a good shot if the opportunity arose.  At times I felt like I was playing real-life Pokemon Snap… waiting for the animals to appear, hoping to capture them in a pose worthy of a high-score…  And yes, I am referring to the N64 game I used to play all the time when I was younger.

Our last night in Puerto Madryn (Tuesday) was really nice.  Gaston put on an asado in the hostel, so all us guests got to eat and chat together.  Plus there was chicken, so it was an asado I could actually eat at :)    (I stopped eating red meat about a year ago, not the most convenient timing, as beef makes up a hefty portion of the Argentine diet).  After the asado, Ramon and I took a stroll through the city with two other Americans from the hostel.  We enjoyed the views of the coast at night, as well had some tasty drinks at Las Margaritas Bar.

The funny thing about Puerto Madryn is that it was not as tropical as I imagined it would be…  The reason being that it’s in the desert.  That’s right, a desert beach town.  It was pretty strange, to me anyway; the town itself, and the coast, were really pretty and nice, but before the town appeared, we were just driving through what seemed like wasteland.  It was really dry and dirty and… kind of ugly.

Well anyway, that was my Puerto Madryn getaway :)  On Wednesday I left at 1:30 on my bus to Mendoza (I was supposed to leave at 12:30 but the bus was late… go figure, Argentina…).  That bus ride was 23 hours long… oof… the longest bus ride I’ve taken since Luke and I came to Bariloche from Bs.As.  But, I mean, it wasn’t that bad…  Even though they’re long, the nice thing about bus rides is you get to look at the countryside.  Plus years of drum corps have taught me very well how to sleep on buses… definitely a perk.

I arrived in Mendoza around noon yesterday.  And… I went directly to an apartment complex.  This Argentine girl named Paula, from CompartoDepto.com, and I had been messaging about living together.  She had to work that evening, so I went directly to her place after arriving to avoid missing the chance to meet her and see the apartment.  Her other roommate Gabi was there too.  Really nice girls!  They showed me the place and then we cooked some pasta and had lunch together.  The apartment was really nice too… nicer than any option I’d ever looked at in Bariloche.  When I told them I was staying with a Couch Surfer, they asked me who, and it turns out Gabi knew Laura (my host)!  They had gone to the same church group years back or something.  Haha, coincidences like that happen in Bariloche all the time… and it’s kind of comforting to know that, even though Mendoza is a much bigger city, they still say “Mendoza es chiquita" (it’s a small world).
After meeting Paula and Gabi, I headed to meet Laura, who lives in an apartment with her mother, Mercedes.  They’re both really lovely people! 
Later I headed out for a stroll to explore what I could of Mendoza.  Without even trying to scope them out, I passed by three English institutes.  Haha.  Then I headed to see another potential roommate and her apartment.  She was a nice girl, but felt better vibes about Paula and Gabi…
From what [little] I saw of Mendoza, I liked it.  It’s not as open and naturalistic as Bariloche (I mean, it’s hard to compare with Nahuel Huapi Lake and the surrounding mountain peaks)… but it possesses its own kind of beauty.  The downtown is adorned with five really nice plazas; it has a ginormous, beautiful park (el Parque General San Martin); the streets are wide (and all paved) and water canals run along the sidewalks.
**I have to interrupt my thought… our bus started moving finally… On our way to Santiago (again)!
It’s now 2:45; we were supposed to arrive 15 minutes ago… oh well**
Continuing: And, even though the heat is pretty strong in Mendoza, the city was really well planned; planted trees line all the streets, so walking down the sidewalks, you’re under a forest of shade.  In an odd way, Mendoza kind of reminded me of Sevilla… albeit smaller and more, well, Argentine.
My [one] evening in the city was quite awesome.  Laura had invited some friends over for dinner, and she made homemade pizza.  So I met her friends and we all had pizza and drinks, I listened to them have a heated discussion (debate, really), and then we played Uno (yes, the card game, of all things).  Typical of Argentine get-togethers, we didn’t close down the festivities until late (about 1:30-2ish).  But even though I had to get up at 6 this morning to catch my bus… I didn’t really care… The fun night was worth it.  And actually, I’m not really that tired right now…
But, I think I’ll put away my computer and try to have a South American siesta anyway.

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